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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.